Pedaling from the Black Forest to the Yellow Sea

daily distance: 133km
total distance: 14,100km
riding time: 8-9h 

I thought about putting: “Police car giving me chase” as the headline for today, but the other one kept me occupied much longer. You will see what I mean. Plenty of things happened today.

I left my place, the temperature again lower than yesterday, now standing at -6C and again, it felt much colder on the bike. My core body temperature is mostly OK - it takes a bit to get warmed up, but the hand and feet are a bit iffy for a while. Today, I was also cold all the time. Maybe I am too skinny or just had a bad day. Who knows. But I was almost fully clothed all day long. Here is what my sleeping quarters were last night. The view was nice though.  

Early on I passed the 14,000km mark:

So, only 1,000km more to go. Or so you may think. But it seems that I can reach the ocean under my own steam. And it will be a bit more in the end.

In Jungchuan I saw this

and this

But I wasn’t allowed in as some local bigwigs were arriving and so I couldn’t go. Too bad. But I saw this … the food in the market was great …  

Back on the bike I was wondering whether I would be riding in a valley for the rest of the time. No sooner had that thought formed did I climb for a good long while. And then remain on a plateay with lots of people selling apples all over.

I then entered coal country. Big time coal country. The towns looked like this.

And this where things happened to prompt me to write the subject line. I was just coming into a part of town and saw someone directing a truck backing up into the street. He saw me, acknowledged my presence and saw me closing in fast. Yet he still directed the driver to back up into my lane. The other side had oncoming traffic. Too late to brake and come to a stop. Road slippery. Not good. Bike acrobatics and two near-misses. I was glad to have made it. But I was fuming. The guy saw me and still almost got me hit. And it wouldn’t have been pretty. I was yelling and screaming at him. He turned around and didn’t care. Didn’t give a damn. I was told by another guy directing traffic that I should move on, they had business to do. I couldn’t believe it. Now I understand that I am on the bottom of the food chain. But this was a bit much. And I wasn’t sure what made me angrier. The fact that it happened or that he didn’t care. I couldn’t do anything but move on.

I wanted to leave this town badly then. I was directed by police a certain way which proved to be wrong. Completely wrong. It meant a big detour to go back and over the hill. I didn’t feel like it. There was a tunnel and a highway. And there are always ways and means to get onto one. So I did. I knew I wasn’t allowed to. I did this with full intention. And hoped I would get by. Then, entering the tunnel I saw the cameras. More and more. Halfway through I thought I may make it. Then I heard the siren. Darn … I was in trouble. I was told to stop outside the tunnel and thought about the situation. What did I care? Would they fine me, throw me out of the country, go to court? Nothing of the sort. The guy said something, I said I didn’t understand - pointed away from the highway and he nodded and let me go. Good one.

Then he passed me again, there had been no way out. But nothing happened. I passed the highway patrol building and got by without a hitch. Then I was hunting for a spot to pitch, got my feet wet in the morast as it was dark and pitched randomly. But I knew it would be cold and the area was moist. Not good. I had little appetite, though I was glad that things worked out with the police. But I was still wondering how much life is worth in China.

daily distance: 121km
total distance: 13,997km
riding time: 7h

I essentially had a lousy night, there simply wasn’t enough space. Despite having lost so much weight it seems that I need some space at night.

I also had two bad dreams last night, one dealing with the local people finding me and stealing my cycling shoes and a bunch of other things. As it turns out though they looked decidedly Southern European rather than Chinese. So much for that. The other dream dealt with completely banged up rims front and back, but the image that I had in my mind was that of completely flexible rims, entirely wobbly. Nothing nice to think of … so it was time to get up. Only to realize that things were much colder outside than under the protection of the greenhouse. A nice snug 2C was replaced by a -5C once I was outside. Brrrr …. and riding into the oncoming wind didn’t make things much better at all. But what brightened my mood was the face of the guy who turned me away last night and gave his dogs some fun while doing so when he saw me pedaling past him in the early morning.

In Longde I warmed up with some more food and talked to the guy who made them. He was tickled to have the foreigner like his daudse - and they were delicious and when he saw the map, he was even more tickled to find Longde on it and tell me where I was.

Then came a long and sometimes tough uphill. Tough because it was decision time. I had been pondering the route for a while. Remain on the G312 until Xian and then turn to the G310 and on to the Yellow Sea or stick to the old idea of getting back to the G309 and head East that way. I pretty much had made up my mind to do the latter, but wavered given the terrain that was awaiting me, the altitude and with it the temperatures. It was getting really cold, every day seemed to be colder than the last. Especially the early mornings. And then there were the constant ups and downs all the time. I was already feeling a little sick and this wouldn’t be getting any better soon. The last straw were the temps on the downhill … it was not just cold. And so I passed the turnoff to Guyuan and stayed on the G312.

I will thus be heading to Xian and then follow the Yellow River for a while. Or at least its valley. Call me chicken for all this, but it seems to make good sense to me. Sure, the other one would have been more off the beaten track and less crowded and I liked that, but there were lots of reasons that mitigated against taking that route.

So, on past the now almost regular pollution as I descended from 2300m to just above 1000m at the end of the day.

In Pingliang there was more food waiting in store, a long internet session and then came a ferocious two hours on the bike. I covered almost 50km in just over two hours, aided by a massive tailwind. It was great and it was a bit warmer than the previous nights.

Taking the easy way now means that I might have more time along the route though I must say that I am a bit anxious towards the end of the trip. And there really isn’t much to do in the towns. But for the remainder you will continue to get more episodes of what one reader has called the soap opera that he is hooked to. Thanks … I do take it as a compliment.

Note: The picture quailty is lousy … I cannot change that for the time being. As I am posting this I am in Xian and couldn’t find an internet cafe which even allows me to access the flickr site. This is hopefully temporary and I will try to remedy the situation as best as I can once I have access again.

daily distance: 125km
total distance: 13,876km
riding time: 6-7h 

I had a really good night and slept well. Here is where …

I packed up my belongings, looked for some food in Huining and headed out. But the best part of the day was early on, even before getting to the rather drab city (as most cities are here I feel). I came around a corner, a family of three standing there. Man, wife and 5-year old daughter. The three of them see me and all, at the same time, give me the thumbs-up sign. It was something I held on to for the rest of the day … when things weren’t so good. Like when this one driver almost ran me over. It was a bit of a close call.

Past Huining it was long uphill climbs and downhill sections … just as on the days prior, but they were all doable. This is serious agroland, apples and chili peppers being the order of the day. Maybe I am getting into warmer territory, judging by the fruits and veggies that are grown here. But: it was almost always 2C, no warmer. For a brief moment, temperatures rose to about 5C, but that was it.

I get a lot of stares here in China … so what do you? You can stare back, but that doesn’t seem to faze people the least. So most of the time I just wave back. Or move on when it gets too much. This one was different though …

I was watching some theater that was put up for people in the area … not much of a draw I would say.

And corn grow on trees …

The night was a bit special. After being turned away all over the place (you pull up and the hand goes no most of the time without even saying a word), I went into a greenhouse which was much warmer and given the minimum light I had left it was a good choice. Or so I thought at the time. I am not sure what is going on here with the people. Just no sense of hospitality? Or just plain rude? Or just not having ever been exposed to foreigners? This is serious farmland, nothing much going on and people living on little. I don’t know and am at a loss as to what the reasons may be.

daily distance: 105km
total distance: 13,751km
riding time: 6h 

It was an early morning start and it was freezingly cold. Not fun. It was bitter.

The good thing was that I found a daudse place, steamed dumplings of hearty goodness. After a slight detour (spell wrong turn) it was a long climb up and an equally long and arduous downhill. The cold became oppressive. All I could think was cold, cold, cold. Clammy cold. And bad roads, very bad and bumpy.

Once I got to Dingxi, things were a bit better. I found an internet cafe after some time (people kept giving me a hard time) and started out again late. The end of the day was another long, long uphill and a beauty of a downhill. The riding was fun and awesome, both on the way up and on the way down. Take a look here if you want …

I found the perfect spot to spend the night. Protected by the wind and just far enough away from the road so as to not hear the traffic. It was again cold though and I am still pondering as to what to do about the remainder of the route. We shall see. East is the general direction though …

I am again having difficulty with the flickr site, my apologies. I have a pretty good idea where the problems are emanating from. It is your guess now … (suffice it to say, it is not in my hands).

daily distance: 138km
total distance: 13,646km
riding time: 7h 

There wasn’t much going on all day. The CCC land (coal, corn, cabbage) was replaced by corn and potatoe land towards the end of the day and the middle was taken up by getting into and out of Lanzhou.

Here is where I spent the night …

Lanzhou is a bigger place.

And has some interesting figures on the riverside.

Pollution was my friend on the way in and a mighty big hill on the way out. While I was putting down water at the end of it, a little tractor had to be refilled with water as it was blowing a good amount of steam towards the top of the climb. You get what you need I suppose.

Pollution (the type you can feel in your lungs) …

The one problem I am facing is that I couldn’t find the road that I had been meaning to take. G309 that is. Instead I am now traveling on G312, which is Rob’s road. The guy from www.14degrees.org. And who has traveled the whole length of the road by skateboard. At any rate, the idea is to head to G309 some time later now. Maybe. The area I am in is busy and with G312, the highway and the railroad in the same valley, things are a bit hectic at times.

Dinner was frugal. After being turned away for caming a couple of times I pitched behind some corn fields. But hey, deja vu. Another guy with a flashlight and the burner simply makes too much noise. So, it was cold food of which I didn’t have all that much left.

Thanks for all the comments that I received the last couple of days again. They make my day.