Pedaling from the Black Forest to the Yellow Sea
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Day 215 (China): Khesir Badadi - just before Zepu (learning the ropes in a new land)

My apologies for the late posting. I have been having difficulties getting on the web. Either there are no internet cafes or I don’t see them or I am not allowed on (as was the case today in Hotan - needless to say I have moved on as I am typing this). Things are going well - no need to worry

daily distance: 114km
total distance: 11,895km
riding time: 5-6h

The day started out really well. The place I stayed at was great. I was introduced to so many Uyghur things that I was glad that of the uncertainty of last night. Uncertainty however was rampant at first. I meant to leave, but was signaled to stay for breakfast. Fair enough. Then, after some bread and grapes, I meant to leave and again was signaled to come along to some place. No idea where yet.

We then went to the “center” of town - just down the road and it was a treat. Sure, plenty of people staring at me and the like, but the food was delicious.

Cooked right there and then, Muma is great. Take a look for yourself.

Plenty of people seem to be coming here in the morning, drink their tea and eat a bite - then take off again. I would have never found out about it.

Then, more riding in the rather uninspiring desert. It was again hazy, with a bit more blue skies overhead.


I covered the first 80km rather quickly, stopped in Shache for a while and got going again - and found the old part of town. The cities here seem to be always divided between a modern Chinese part of town and a traditional Uy*ghur part of town. The same here - broad boulevards v. small narrow streets and the like. Business in both parts though.

I did some more riding, but didn’t get much done finally. 30km or so, that was it. I tried finding a place to camp, but there are always lots and lots of people. Can’t escape them. I meant to pitch when someone saw me and hailed me. I had to go over and ask whether it was OK to pitch. They asked me in instead - brought very yummy food over and we watched Chinese TV. They were Han Chinese - told me that they had moved from their province (Hanxi) over here - ostensibly with go*vernment subsidies. Those can’t be high however, given the conditions they lived in. It was very basic - mud bricks, mud ground and not much space at all. But it was another good glimpse into the life of people here for which I am grateful.

Some of you have asked what the map is for on the website. It shows where visitors to the site come from - or at least it appears that they are from, based on their IP address. As of today, I realize that I also have a reader from Greenland. But I also realized that the blip in Japan has grown considerably - and I know that one reader has been having a tough time. I can only hope that she can find the strength to get through this difficult time. And you know who you are.


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