Pedaling from the Black Forest to the Yellow Sea
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Day 135 (Iran): Razaviyeh - Shuraq (angels coming late)

daily distance: 110km
total distance: 8242km
riding time: don’t ask - too long

It was a bit of an early morning … people wake up earlier here. We had breakfast, the neighbors bringing over food as they had done the previous night after feeding us all over the place to start with. It was a very moving show of appreciation with the foreigner and in their eyes filling the need to make up for the bad done to him in their town (no such need really seen from my perspective). The communal feelings certainly run much higher than they would anywhere else I have been so far.

The police was to come … but they never showed up. First it was about finding someone that could serve as my representative if the money were to turn up. It hadn’t, so I called Reza who will take care of things from now on. I am writing the money off basically. The stupidity budget is pretty much empty now though. While waiting for the police I found out that they were to escort me to the border. That was not going to happen so after some time I made my way out. Not without playing some ping-pong with Sayid and a picture with the very helpful people at the municipality of Razaviyeh.

The wind which had been coming from the right direction before had made a U-turn by the time I headed out. It was also hot. And so I biked into a ferocious wind after bidding farewell from everyone, but especially from Sayid who had made the time very much bearable.

The wind was beating me pretty good. Every time I turned, the wind turned with me - it was brutal. No fun and one of those days during which you ask yourself why you are doing this to start with. I did. More than once. Actually quite constantly.

I wasn’t sure whether to head over the pass, but made a run for it, knowing I would cut it close to reach the next town before nightfall.


The wind was still in my face on the other side and progress was slow. The landscape dramatic, it could have been great riding except for the wind and the road, which was treacherous for the most part. Broken asphalt everywhere, gliding along not an option.

Towards the end the light became a bit critical. The wind no longer a factor as it grew dark, I was able to increase speed, having to climb a few times still. Not sure where I would end up, I was flying blindly pretty much. And it was getting really dark now. A bit of a race against time. Then, it happened … for the first time in Iran a car was not overtaking, but stayed behind me, signaling me to go ahead, they would cover my rear. This was heaven, couldn’t have been better. I beat the last bit out of me and arrived in Shuraq when it was positively dark. Wow - what a day.

As soon as I arrived an old man asked whether I needed a place to sleep. I had to catch my breath, having hardly a chance to thank the car that gave me company over the last 7 or 8 km. They were off quickly, hearing none of the thanks. The old man led me to his house and we had a fun dinner. Again, slept quickly and very deep.


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